Console to PC Questions

[Jysen]

I'm beginning to believe the Motherboard is the biggest obstacle yet lol.

 

I've looked through various boards, ranging from the low end prices to the ridiculous prices. Thankfully in their description Ive learned whether or not it was compatible with the I7 or not. Off the top of my head, the I7 Coffee Lake is considered the 9th Gen I believe.

 

Is 850w power supply considered low end for you all? Should I go higher just to be safe or for other reasons?

 

I'm still in debate of a GPU, though Nvidia will probably be my route unless I'm convinced otherwise. Just depends on how much I'm willing to sink into that and what the final cost will.end up being.

 

Cooling fans. After reviewing the I7 Coffee Lake, apparently it doesn't come with a cooling fan? Figures lol, so I got to ask, how do you know how many cooling fans you need? Do you over do it, or guess?

 

Anyway, the hunt continues and I Co tinge to appreciate the responses from everyone.

[bobrpggamer]

I see the chipset is kind of getting to you, I always had a problem with northbridge southbridge differences but it is not that important. Choosing a chipset for your CPU and RAM can just be features, such as 1 or 2 M2 slots, 4 3.0 USB ports compared to 6 3.0 USB ports, better sound features such as 7.1 or 5.1 audio, also how many Sata ports.

 

I would just look for what you want:

 

Do you care a lot about onboard sound: check the onboard sound chipset in a review.

You should not need more than 6 Sata 6.0 ports.

you should try and shoot for 2 M2 slots for upgrading later on.

You should not need more than 2 16x PCI express slots and a 1x to 4x PCI Express for later expansion.

You should try and get a max RAM of 64, while its not that important for a long while but it does give you some headroom for later.

I would not bother with overclocking too much as guppycur says it not that important to have great overclock options for a first time build and most motherboards will let you overclock just a little without worrying about anything overclockers do, including voltage and watercooling.

 

Then google the chipsset and look mainly for reliability over slight performance. You really do not need that $700.00 Asus board. A lot of brands of motherboards look to reliability over performance like Asus with their "tuf" thing they have. So read some reviews on newegg and check out the chipset according to the socket for reliability. Your CPU will gauge performance along with the amount and speed of RAM the motherboard just throws out features catering to ether performance or reliability and also each one adds a little of this or that, like 4 3.0 USB ports where one will 8 Sata ports and so on.

 

There is a few things to think about,

The MSI MicroATX motherboard has a 8 pin ATX plug and a 6 Pin ATX plug and I checked a lot of power supplies and there is usually an 8 pin and or a 4 + 4 pin cable. So check to see the plugs that are needed.You will get the 20+4 or the 24 pin every motherboard needs but I guess now there is 2 ATX power plugs, do not buy one with a 6 pin plug, it will be hard to find a 6 pin cable on a power supply.

 

Also try and find a motherboard with good placement for the RAM, this will help you upgrade your ram without removing your heatsink

 

I hope I did not confuse you or anything, its just something to be aware of.

 

I used to check this out: https://www.newegg.com/tools/power-supply-calculator/?nm_mc=KNC-GoogleKWLess&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleKWLess-_-Category-_-PSU-_-PowerSupplyCalculator-2019&s_kwcid=AL!5844!3!302382823366!b!!g!!%2Bpower%20%2Bsupply%20%2Bcalculator&&s_kwcid=AL!5844!3!302382823366!b!!g!!%2Bpower%20%2Bsupply%20%2Bcalculator&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0IDtBRC6ARIsAIA5gWuN-spMyr4f5orp6xnXWQTC2wHAvwlGk5llBJjXntc5gI4FjvAmHCEaAkKoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds just add 100 or so more wattage and you will be safe but as you said it would be better to have a higher wattage power supply than a low wattage one. I know this from experience when I bought a crappy PS and it would not keep my PC running.

 

From the picture I uploaded I have a massive 1200 watt power supply and while I know its not necessary for the PC I have it was for a better PC I had before and why not be safe than sorry in the power supply pick. Its a bummer when you look at you voltages and you see low dips and it can get to the point of where your PC will shut down.

[meganoth]

I'm beginning to believe the Motherboard is the biggest obstacle yet lol.

 

I've looked through various boards, ranging from the low end prices to the ridiculous prices. Thankfully in their description Ive learned whether or not it was compatible with the I7 or not. Off the top of my head, the I7 Coffee Lake is considered the 9th Gen I believe.

 

Is 850w power supply considered low end for you all? Should I go higher just to be safe or for other reasons?

 

I'm still in debate of a GPU, though Nvidia will probably be my route unless I'm convinced otherwise. Just depends on how much I'm willing to sink into that and what the final cost will.end up being.

 

Cooling fans. After reviewing the I7 Coffee Lake, apparently it doesn't come with a cooling fan? Figures lol, so I got to ask, how do you know how many cooling fans you need? Do you over do it, or guess?

 

Anyway, the hunt continues and I Co tinge to appreciate the responses from everyone.

 

Man, you are really overthinking this. Buying a PC is not rocket science. In reality a more expensive motherboard might give you 1% more speed (or not). And you will never ever notice that 1% while playing. Most features of a more expensive motherboard are for overclocking stuff or blinking LEDs or stuffing 8 hard disks into the PC.

 

Power supply, I have a 500W supply in mine and it works flawlessly. 850W is for DUAL-CPU configurations, it doesn't hurt, you just spend more money to be able to add a second graphics card later without upgrading the power supply.

 

GPU: Nvidia is the ♥♥♥♥ty lying company but has the slightly better GPUs if you look at power draw and it has the top range GPUs for too much money. Also nvidia has the advantage that game developers test more on nvidia than amd (because of market share).

If you go for the performance of a 2080, nvidia is your only choice, if you buy below that the difference between AMD and nvidia is mostly irrelevant.

 

Cooling fans is just about the noise. You want low noise, get a cooling solution that costs you about $40 or more, there are a lot of review sites that compare coolers if you want to go into detail.

[bobrpggamer]

Man, you are really overthinking this. Buying a PC is not rocket science. In reality a more expensive motherboard might give you 1% more speed (or not). And you will never ever notice that 1% while playing. Most features of a more expensive motherboard are for overclocking stuff or blinking LEDs or stuffing 8 hard disks into the PC.

 

Power supply, I have a 500W supply in mine and it works flawlessly. 850W is for DUAL-CPU configurations, it doesn't hurt, you just spend more money to be able to add a second graphics card later without upgrading the power supply.

 

GPU: Nvidia is the ♥♥♥♥ty lying company but has the slightly better GPUs if you look at power draw and it has the top range GPUs for too much money. Also nvidia has the advantage that game developers test more on nvidia than amd (because of market share).

If you go for the performance of a 2080, nvidia is your only choice, if you buy below that the difference between AMD and nvidia is mostly irrelevant.

 

Cooling fans is just about the noise. You want low noise, get a cooling solution that costs you about $40 or more, there are a lot of review sites that compare coolers if you want to go into detail.

I have no Idea how, with headphones on, the sound of fans is really important, if you sleep next to you PC like I have for most of my life then I can understand the noise complaint, otherwise with a good set of headphones you will never hear those fans while you are gaming or listening to your MP3 collection. Of course if you use a HTPC type setup, well then the noise could be an issue.

 

I agree you do not need a overpowered power supply, but your 850watt power supply is a good choice, I think anyway. In PC building, a low powered power supply is a gamble you should not take and 850 will cover you plenty, especially with a single card and not to many peripherals like hard drives and fans and other things that you probably will not need attached to your power supply cables.

 

I have 2 Sata controllers, 8 80mm fans, a sound card, 8 Sata drives and a GTX 1080 so I would probably want 900-1000 watt power supply for my setup. If you figure the cost difference with a power supply from 600 to 850 watts is about $20.00-$30.00 so you might as well be safe and making this easily being the cheapest costing upgrade to decide on while working on cost effective parts in your PC.

 

I forgot to mention that you should have a backup and storage drive and do not hold all of your files on 1 M2 drive. Even if you have an external drive this drive will not lose files during an operating system problem. A 2tb SATA 6.0Gb/s drive will be good to hold your important files for backup.

 

Here is a few drives listed as cheapest for 1-2tb drives https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100167523%20600003300%204814%20600457692%20600003489%201100858365%20600361769%20600003298%20600003316&Order=PRICE you really do not have to have something with 5 eggs, just look for something about 4 eggs and up and check some reviews and how many reviews.

 

This is really not meant to add more confusion but I think everyone would agree a separate drive from you OS is good to have.

 

Well maybe you could hold off on it for a while and just get your PC built and then a couple of months later add a backup drive and of course you could partition your SSD into 2 or more partitions but I still believe a backup drive is important.

[Jysen]

Trust me, I know I was over thinking it when I would think about it lol. But, that might have to do with the fact that I'm looking way ahead of time before I buy anything. Too much time on my hands per say lol

 

It ain't rocket science, that I agree. But I still prefer to use some caution. Plus, I was learning along the way, which results in a more solid conclusion for me lol.

 

It's still much time before I end up buying anything, so it's all window shopping at this point for me. But when that moment comes, I'll be ready lol

[bobrpggamer]

I think you have the right idea looking at your original wishlist, so if you got the time, be sure to read as many reviews and benchmarks as you can, or if your like me just watch some YouTube reviews if you do not want to read 10 pages of a review on a part. Sometime you will see a roundup of parts and it will give you a general idea of which one is better in a price/performance point of view.

[Jysen]

Whew... 7 items, $1414 bucks total lol.

 

Found a Motherboard for like $130. Figured I save it and look at it close later. I'm not sure yet if I'll go full on keyboard/mouse, or attempt to continue to use a controller. So not sure if it has Bluetooth or I'll need to install one.

 

I went with a Mid Tower. Like $80 bucks, but quite a lot of positive reviews. My only question would be as it has only 1 USB 3.0 port, cause that don't seem like enough down the road for anything.

 

Decided to take a semi cut back and stick with the Nvidia GTX 2060. At $380 bucks, compared to 500 plus, I don't need ultra high 4k crap on a regular HDTV anyway lol.

 

I do question fans, cause not sure if I'll need additional support in that regard. The case stated there's room to add in multiple 120mm fans (I believe that's the right size), so hopefully I can avoid melting it lol.

 

Like I said, got plenty of time still before choosing a route. Who knows, maybe I'll find a different route that's cheaper, or most likely more expensive. Back in '99, when Gateway was the top dog, I went to their site and built one. Would've been $3500 lol. Soo yeah... Me and Technology can get expensive really quick if I'm not being over cautious lol

[bobrpggamer]

Well the case has just the USB for the front usually and you have to have the cable for the USB in the case to attach it to the USB header on the motherboard. Your motherboard will have at least 6 USB usually on the back panel so you just use the front USB for convenience.

 

let me know what case you have in mind and I can give you an idea as to if you need additional case fans. Usually you could get by with a decent powered 120mm fan in front and one in the back and then have the heatsink/fan for the CPU blow the hot air directly out the rear fan. Without overclocking and a relatively cool CPU and a lower powered GPU like the 2060 you will have plenty of airflow with the 2 120mm fans in front and back. Which brings me to another thing, airflow and cables, you should use as little cables as you need and try to route the cables in a way that they do not block the airflow from the front case fan. This is a terrible example because this PC was a backup PC and I spent as little time as possible to route the cables, but you can see the cables are as far way as possible in the front to allow my 2 80mm fans in front to blow air through the case https://i.imgur.com/55lcmBt.jpg you just need some zip ties or bread bag ties and try to minimize the amount of cables from being all over the case impeding airflow.

 

I have a lot of cable that you will not need so don't pay too much attention to the picture as far as cables.

 

You will have at least these cables:

 

From the Power Supply:

1 24 pin motherboard cable

1 PCI Express cable

1 ATX motherboard cable

 

If you get a fully modular power supply you will hardly have any cables to worry about airflow - as you can see in the photo I have a cluster of cables bunched up above the power supply.

 

In your case:

the USB header for the front USB port on your case

 

Your fans will have a cable you could attach to your motherboard and these cable are not very big so no need to worry about them getting in the way.

 

I cannot believe I used to have UV light bars in this case when I first got it, a phase I thankfully got over, I hope.

[Jysen]

Cooler Master HAF 912 - Mid Tower Computer Case with High Airflow, Supporting up to Six 120mm Fans and USB 3.0

 

5 Egg rating with over 3000 reviews. Figure something must be good lol

[bobrpggamer]

Cooler Master HAF 912 - Mid Tower Computer Case with High Airflow, Supporting up to Six 120mm Fans and USB 3.0

 

5 Egg rating with over 3000 reviews. Figure something must be good lol

It has the usual 1 fan in back and 1 fan in front so I think you will be OK without buying more fans, just buy as good of a CPU fan/heatsink as you can and you should be fine and if later you see your temps are high then you can add more fans. I do stress that you should but the best CPU fan/heatsink you can afford.

 

Also about every 6 months you should take a shop vac and or air compressor and blow the dust out of your case and your fans look like they are not LED lighted so just check them here and there to make sure they are working. The good thing with LED fans is they are easy to tell if they are working.

 

I have a cousin that had a PC I was working on for him, adding some ram and a hard drive and when I opened up the case the back case fan was on the bottom of his case and not working, which was crazy to me but I am a computer guy and he wasn't. He also had enough dust to clog a sink drain in his power supply and pretty much his entire case was a mess so I cleaned it for him. So just keep your PC clean of as much dust as possible and your PC will keep running fine.

 

 

You do not really need to clean the fan blades, but replacing them in a year or so is a good idea and 120mm fans are about $10.00 anyway. Fans do have a MTBF thing, meaning "Mean Time Before Failing" this a certain amount of time when you can expect your fans to stop working, but a year of use is fine before replacing them.

[Jysen]

Yeah, the dust is my biggest fear, but it'd be one of those things I simply maintain and should be fine.

 

Now just for complete clarification on my part, when you mention CPU fan, is that an additional component over the fan that's with the power supply? Or am I confused as usual on what should be simple lol

 

EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G+, 80 Plus Gold 850W, Fully Modular, FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Power Supply 120-GP-0850-X1

 

That's what I added into my cart awhile back, 850w should be plenty for power, and what got me was when I looked at the I7 Coffee Lake, it stayed there was no fan that came with it. Will this be all I need, or do I need to find an additional fan?

[bobrpggamer]

Yeah, the dust is my biggest fear, but it'd be one of those things I simply maintain and should be fine.

 

Now just for complete clarification on my part, when you mention CPU fan, is that an additional component over the fan that's with the power supply? Or am I confused as usual on what should be simple lol

 

EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G+, 80 Plus Gold 850W, Fully Modular, FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Power Supply 120-GP-0850-X1

 

That's what I added into my cart awhile back, 850w should be plenty for power, and what got me was when I looked at the I7 Coffee Lake, it stayed there was no fan that came with it. Will this be all I need, or do I need to find an additional fan?

Yeah you really need to know about a CPU fan if you don't. Here is some for your motherboard socket: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100168389%204814%20601346187%201100858365&Order=RATING the ZALMAN CNPS9500 AT 2 Ball CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink is a great fan at $32.00 and I have used them often, you can see that in the picture below I am using this or similar zalman as my CPU fan/heatsink

or newer review here

 

Here would be the basic procedure for a third party fan:

 

You could get by with the stock fan I guess but your temps will be high in gaming

 

The I7 Coffee Lake CPUs come with a fan in the package no need to buy one but they are really not that good.

 

I hope that helps.

 

Here is your case more in depth that you picked out:

 

Gaming ranks up there with video encoding and professional graphics and sound applications on stressing your CPU, meaning higher temps on your CPU, its not great for your case to be hot inside because this effects your motherboard, video card and even your PSU. So you could get by with the stock Intel CPU fan but it is generally better to have a good CPU fan/heatsink which will lower the temps in your case. The good CPU fan/heatsinks are designed to blow the heat from the CPU out your back case fan rather than accumulating heat inside your case. Look at the copper CPU fan/heatsink in my case and how it blows to the rear and out the 2 case fans in the back of the case https://i.imgur.com/55lcmBt.jpg

 

You could argue that adding more case fans and using the stock Intel fan would be just as good. I just suggest to invest in a good CPU fan/heatsink myself, but its up to you

 

Oh yeah, be sure the fan you pick blows the right direction which is to the back of the case, yeah you want to do that.

 

Come to think of it this whole building a PC thing makes some people think that PC gamers think or are elite gamers, due to all the custom builds with advanced lighting, water-cooling and overclocking. You can look at it however you want but when your PC boots up and you install your operating system and benchmark your PC, you will be proud of what you did and you will be thinking about your next build and how much better it will be with the experience you have on your first.

 

Wall of text again.

[Jysen]

So, here's the final look at the moment. Total cost is still around $1450, but I believe it's everything I need lol.

 

ZALMAN CNPS9500 AT 2 Ball CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink

 

Cooler Master HAF 912 - Mid Tower Computer Case with High Airflow, Supporting up to Six 120mm Fans and USB 3.0

 

MSI GeForce RTX 2060 DirectX 12 RTX 2060 GAMING Z 6G 6GB 192-Bit GDDR6 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card

 

MSI PRO Z390-A PRO LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z390 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard

 

EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G+, 80 Plus Gold 850W, Fully Modular, FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Power Supply 120-GP-0850-X1

 

G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16D-32GTZR

 

SAMSUNG 970 EVO M.2 2280 1TB PCIe Gen3. X4, NVMe 1.3 64L V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-V7E1T0BW

 

Intel Core i7-9700K Coffee Lake 8-Core 3.6 GHz (4.9 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) 95W BX80684I79700K Desktop Processor Intel UHD Graphics 630

[bobrpggamer]

Seems like you have picked out a nice PC to build, just be sure to upload pics of your PC when you get around to building it. You could buy some Artic Silver 5 thermal paste if you want, its cheap and will help keep your CPU cool https://www.newegg.com/arctic-silver-as5-3-5g/p/N82E16835100007?item=N82E16835100007&source=region&nm_mc=knc-googleadwords-pc&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-pc-_-pla-_-cpu+thermal+paste+%2f+grease-_-N82E16835100007&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0brtBRDOARIsANMDykbwOYSnvF6jlvdSf9eWA459tB9_QX9CCvFs1ou5TOz7i2xbMhEOOIcaAmDHEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I almost forgot, you will need your OS of course, you can buy Windows 10 OEM at newegg unless you use linux https://www.newegg.com/d/Microsoft-Operating-Systems/BrandSubCat/ID-1149-368 I use the home version and it should be fine for gaming, I honestly do not even know what the Pro version has that makes it any better. You could scour the web for the lowest price on this, but it would be better getting it from a good retailer like newegg, I don't even recommend getting from Amazon to be honest, getting a copy that will pop up as not being genuine will more than likely ruin your day. Luckily installing a new OS like windows 10 is the easiest part you will need to do when building your PC.

 

When you build you should always ground yourself by touching your power supply constantly before handling your parts. Some people use a static grounding wire on your wrist, I usually just make sure I ground myself before I touch the RAM and other parts by touching the power supply - I learned this from Maximum PC many years ago.

 

Of course you should download drivers:

Motherboard: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/Z390-A-PRO#down-driver&Win10%2064

Video Card: https://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx

 

Other downloads:

Core Temp https://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/

Prime95 https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/prime95-download.html

 

The fun stuff after a build is benchmarking. First try Prime95 to check that your components are going to be cool when you game, let that run for an hour or more and check your temps with Core Temp, check online to see the max temps for the CPU and make sure you stay well below this while in Prime95, this will also check to see if the RAM and voltages are OK as well - by basically stress testing you will see if your build will be reliable during gaming before you install your games.

 

Benchmarks:

3DMark https://benchmarks.ul.com/3dmark

cinebench https://www.maxon.net/en-us/support/downloads/

 

I do not use Cinebench because I have 4 game benchmarks I use, including STALKER Call of Pripyat, Crysis, Metro Last Light Redux and Quake 3 (just for a laugh) but you need to buy the games to use the benchmarks so you could just use 3Dmark and Cinebench to check out your PC's perforrmance.

 

Then, finally you get to install steam and 7 Days to Die and play like a big dog.

 

Other than your Video Card, Your PC far outmatches mine so you should be able to play 7 Days with higher settings and better FPS.

 

You must be using a PC to post here so you could save some time and download all your drivers and utilities and put them on a Thumb-drive to be ready when you install windows, which is always a good practice.

[Jysen]

Unfortunately it seems I'm still going to be quite some time away before I'll finally be able to upgrade. It would almost be frustrating, but I still have big ambitions on my current game to keep me occupied lol.

 

And to be honest, I really don't know about A18 and where I actually stand on the matter. Some aspects sound great, like the mining having a recognizable boulder, but then I'm also not liking the way they've negated crafting in many ways.

 

Though it is in experimental and undoubtedly will change again, but the direction they're heading might be worth it in the end. Then again, if I can still play say A16 even after its considered finished, then maybe it will still be worth it lol.

 

What does suck is not being able to play it personally and having a 1st hand experience with it. But that day will arrive no doubt, thankfully I have a strong will in patience lol

[bobrpggamer]

You can still play A16 from what I hear and I am playing A17. The easiest way would be to install the game and during new alphas, make a copy your current folder and play from there, but there is a way in steam to "opt out of all betas" and pick the version you want to play which goes back to A11 I think.

 

Maybe by the time you are ready a new wave of i7s will com along as well, the new i9 is out in November and they cut the pricing in half thanks to AMD chips being such a better buy. I am not sure what the new i7s will be but they may be priced a little better due to AMD coming back into play.

 

I have considered trying A18 myself due to the POSITIVE aspects outweighing the negative and enhancing my personal play style and I guess in contrast ruining others play style. I am not into melee, usually it is a last resort being the only time I fight that way, this seems to be the biggest gripe people have had so far. I did see a video and the guy had a sledgehammer and took out an entire POI with just that weapon so it could not be that bad here it is:

about 9:41 in he uses the sledgehammer.

 

Personally I am getting ready for my $9,000.00 build including an i9 @ 4.4ghz, 3 M2 SSDs, 64GB DDR4 3200 with tightened timings running @ 2866 (the i9s supported DDR4 frequency) , 2 2080ti on Nvidia Link, 4 14TB Seagate Enterprise SATA 3 drives and a custom $1200.00 case with 14 fans, 3 fan controllers 3 RGB controllers and some UV lights as well as custom cables and other extras. As well as a Ultra wide curved Nvidia GSync 4k monitor. Man, I would be sportin' with that M****F*****.

 

Yeah right. Then I could be a real jackass by posting if those specs would run the game at high setting - I hate guys that post "I have a (whatever is the top of the line at the time) PC and I get 160 FPS with all settings maxed" in a post where guys are trying to get low to mid-range PCs to run a game, the mods should delete those posts as they have relevant factor in these posts, other than saying "look what I got" garbage.

 

Sorry for the above it just came out for some reason. As far as your PC though, good things come to those who wait and it is wise to be patient and make sure everything is ready for you to go on with your build and you can enjoy the game when you are ready. If I had patients I would not be $16,000.00 in debt right now, so I applaud your patients, I sure don't have them.

[Jysen]

Yeah, the whole debacle of "Master Race" being on PC was amusing as it was annoying at times. Mostly because I've always been the type to not care what anyone plays on, at the end of the day, a true gamer is a true gamer regardless of platform. Which is also why I loathe the concept of exclusives, nor ever understood the console fanboys with their idiotic logic.

 

As for actual game play, I'm a fan of my spiked club. I used the sledgehammer for the 1st time about a week or two ago when I found it (Early stage of my recent game). Must admit, definitely noticed the different in power, and using it on doors was nice, but I'll stick to my spiked club.

 

Controls on console are far from being refined. While I rock my sniper rifle, and usually handgun/smg or handgun/ak combo, but I've switched to the magnum this round with the ak. But lining up a shot can be frustrating, and often I have to strafe around to line up a shot. This isn't always difficult if in the open, but on iron bars on a horde night, I've fallen off my base in the past lol. Which is why iron bars are now a standard 2 in width for me lol. I found I had to lower the default turn speed in order to have more stable control. The down side is just that, I'm slower. Then switch to when I use to play Destiny, and my brain/eyes are freaking out at the speed increase for awhile lol. I always hoped they would've fixed it on console, but...

 

The negatives outweigh the positives for me on A18. Mostly because of the way it's become more of a looter/shooter from the perspective I've gathered. This doesn't appeal to me, nor what the core of the game was originally throughout the alphas.

 

Do I want to try it? Yes, of course. I do like the changes to mining being it's easier to locate. Being able to see all the new POI's will simply blow my mind away. As console is like A14/A15, there is a massive gap in content I've been denied to experience. I personally hated the Plains biome, ran into so many damn cacti it isn't funny at this point. In fact, they've caused more damn to me and my bike then anything else in the game.

 

I'm sure my build will eventually change down the road, maybe put more into it, maybe not, hard to say. It sucks having to wait, but again, I'm enjoying my current game with plans to build some unique bases/outposts, so I have no symptoms of withdrawals to worry about lol

[bobrpggamer]

As far as control, do you plan to use a controller? I totally forgot that you wanted a living room PC, I play in the living room mostly with a keyboard on my lap and a mouse mat glued to a piece of wood to make it rigid but at my desk with keyboard and mouse I have way better control.

 

The whole Console PC thing is kind of lamb I agree where as some are always trying to call the other clowns for some reason. My thing is the controller, I cannot image playing a FPS with a controller, I learned the keyboard mouse thing back in 98 with Doom on Windows 95 and I never looked back, I used to use the cursor keys for all games from the Amiga and C64 as well as PC later on then I trained myself the ASDW and it was more natural.

 

If I were to come from the controller to a keyboard that would be the same thing I am sure, its just what is more comfortable or intuitive to the player.

[Jysen]

Honestly I see myself making the switch to mouse and keyboard once I arrive to PC. It really wouldnt be an issue to use from where I sit, aside my table sits on my right, sooo, yeah, that might make things a bit difficult to get accustomed to.

 

From Arcade to Console, those have been my main aspects to gaming all my life. PC, not so much, even though I've always wanted for like 20 years now lol. But like everything, it's just a matter of getting use to it, because like with a controller, when I was playing GTAV, to even Wildlands, I could fly/drive with just my left hand and grab my drink or whatever lol.

 

The biggest issue when it came to console vs PC is always the controls. That Keyboard and Mouse are superior to Controllers, and despite not using it, Im very inclined to agree. I really loathe the aim assist games gave on controllers. When I was stupid enough to be playing Destiny 2, I found that to be a huge disadvantage. While not a PvP kinda guy by any means, I could be pretty dominate, but that aim assist crap screwed me over more than I can count lol. So yeah, I feel attempting to use a controller would simply result in the same issues I currently have. Though I'm sure there will be without a doubt some growing pains as a result lol.

 

But I do look forward to the change. Having more responsive controls will be like a completely different game lol. As it is, if I was to switch to another game right now, it would take a few to get adjusted to the speed difference, it's actually really horrible. But considering how much I do love this game regardless where it's at on console, it's been worth the price every time lol.

 

Oh and before I forget, when/if you do attempt A18, would you object to giving me your opinion on it? I'm still debating and on the fence still against many things about it. But no doubt equally curious lol

[bobrpggamer]

I believe that the controller is superior to keyboard and mouse in driving games, some sports games and arcade like games, such as shoot 'em ups and platformer's. I used to play some Amiga platformer games with my gamepad and I always use my gamepad fo all of my racing games.

 

As far as A18, I cannot say when I will give it a try, so you may be trying it before I do and I may be ask you your opinion of it someday.

 

I forgot to mention, I bought a PS3 back in 2014 or something just to play Madden NFL and a Baseball Game - I cannot remember which - I had it about 2 weeks and sold it. This has nothing to do with PC Gaming vs Console Gaming, yet it just seems that the games I enjoy the most are almost all on the PC and with Steam, the access to games via Steam sales (which is why I have 300 or so games just on Steam), it would be hard to have just a console as my gaming platform. The thing that made me buy the PS3 was the fact that the consoles have a bigger selection of sports games. The last console I bought was in 1992 and was a Sega Genesis, I wanted a PC once I sold my Amiga but I could not come close to a $2000.00 486 or similar PC at that time.

 

PC gamer for life I guess. This sure sounds like an Elite PC Gaming thing but assure you its just the games on PC have always been my favorite genre (RPG, FPS, Simulation) also because my PC is the center of my pathetic life and serves as the only entertainment, creative and gaming platform I need. I get up and I come out to the couch to plant my lazy ass and turn on my 60" Plasma and I see my desktop of my PC in my back room thanks to 50' cables.

 

Some guys like cars, boats, expensive clothes, jewelry or other luxury, my thing is computers. Building a new PC and having about 4-5 PCs around my house used for different purposes is what I really dream about, not a sports car or boat or whatever.

 

1 PC for gaming.

1 PC for downloading and with advanced firewall hardware.

1 PC for Professional Graphics and Video applications (Workstation).

1 PC for HTPC (Home Theater PC).

1 PC for archiving, storage and backup of all my files with a Ultrium 7 tape drive having 6TB uncompressed capacity.

1 PC for Retro Gaming and VMware workstation serving as a OS running multiple emulators and such.

1 PC for a render node

A rackmount system with advanced networking and housing some of the above.

 

Pretty ridiculous, but is cheaper than a Porsche. Does this make me a geek, I wonder?

[Jysen]

I've always read that driving was horrendous on PC without a controller. The same logic behind it is also what made me skeptical on the keyboard and mouse. While the mouse grants beyond superior control, a keyboard unlike controllers don't have that sensitivity. I always imagined many games, like platformer's and such would feel very rigid and not smooth. I'm sure I'll attempt both methods though, because while I want better performance, I do require comfort. It's why I much rather use my TV over sitting at a desk, that kills my back and neck.

 

It's not being considered arrogant to prefer PC at all. It's the ones who constantly slam on another because they don't use the same platform. This obviously happens all around, PS vs Xbox, back in the day, Nintendo vs Sega. It'll never end thanks to fan boys with zero clue lol.

 

Honestly, I've always been jealous of PC. Simulation to RTS games were a tremendous attraction to me, yet I was never able to play them. I remember one that was a recreation of Gettysburg, and I about died of envy as I loved History, and it being a RTS. Or games like Civilization, though I did get a taste when they released Civ 2 on the PS1, instantly was one of my favorites.

 

But don't get me wrong, despite that, I've played some amazing games thanks to consoles. I've had many memorable nights Co op playing with friends and family over various games. I simply can't deny that aspect. While it may be deemed inferior to some, everyone had fun, and at the end of the day, that's all that matters.

 

Another great appeal is indeed the emulations to be able to play older games without the need of the consoles they originally came on. Sure, I still own my SNES, Sega, N64, Xbox 360, to the PS1,2, and 4. But it is a hassle if I wanted to play the older systems, especially since I'd need to get an older tv... So PC will without a doubt benefit me more than just 7d2d.

 

Yeah, I just want 1 PC lol. I could see a 2nd one if for some reason I wanted to attempt at making videos. The possibility of creating content is intriguing, and could be fun.

 

But for anything else, not really. I'm old school and love having physical copies of my movies. While I have come to accept and grown spoiled by digital on games, movies are still a thing I like having an actual collection on. Always loved my entertainment aspect, which is why had I been rich or hit the lotto, I could see an entire underground floor dedicated to just entertainment lol.

 

Cheaper than a Porche? For the most part, true. But technology isn't cheap either. The cost of current products can get ridiculous, and God knows it can add up extremely quickly if not careful lol

[bobrpggamer]

Well the games you will want to play with a Keyboard or Mouse would be RPG, FPS, TPS, Strategy and simulation (although simulation is best with controllers such as flight sim equipment like Joystick, Throttle rudder and so on which I happen to have).

 

As far as emulators, I usually like old Computers like the C64, Amiga and MS-DOS games, although there are some console games I have that require a PlayStaion and Dreamcast or something.

 

If you like Arcade games, MAME is great to have. You can check out some emulators here: https://www.emulator-zone.com/

 

The great thing about emulators is that, you can save a perfect state of where you are (most of them) so you can save the state before you do something and if it fails you can reload the state. which is essentially cheating but some games really are that unforgivably hard.

 

All run on Windows, although some run better on earlier Windows. If you are interested in emulation let me know and I can give you a run down of some of the emulators and offer some sites to check out, believe me I know a lot about emulation so let me know.

 

Here are some essential free software apps to get:

 

Adobe Reader - https://get.adobe.com/reader/

7 Zip - https://www.7-zip.org/

Fraps - https://www.fraps.com/

Core Temp - https://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/

Cpu-Z - https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

Classic Shell - http://www.classicshell.net/

Prime 95 - https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/prime95-download.html

3D Mark - https://www.3dmark.com/

 

You should also get a good Firewall/Antivirus - you can search for reviews of some that my be subscription or freeware.

 

Acronis TrueImage has saved me time and time again by making a complete copy (Image) of your entire hard drive and when you have a problem with you OS drive you can just copy the saved image back onto your drive while removing whatever was on there causing the problem. I highly recomend it if you can afford it sometime. https://www.acronis.com/en-us/lp/personal/sem?gclid=CjwKCAjwo9rtBRAdEiwA_WXcFgIr3oF4w90uAMQx_koFVbCR-seKKQdgVanrTVzyI8wLOkTk6maBqhoC5KUQAvD_BwE

 

As far as DVDs and Blu-Rays I like to have them too but when you rip your Television Shows and Movies to your PC all you have to do is click on the media file anytime you want, no need to insert the DVD or whatever. You would still have your media its just a better way to watch them in my opinion.

 

Imagine going to your shelf, getting your DVD, going to the Blu Ray player, putting in the DVD and using the remote to play your DVD and the repeating the possess or you could have:

 

https://i.imgur.com/FnASTsL.png

https://i.imgur.com/adRQiJl.png

https://i.imgur.com/wO4vLOi.png

https://i.imgur.com/NIj4Blt.png

 

And just click on this:

 

https://i.imgur.com/vlmoaYt.png (happens to be the Walking Dead Season 1 Disk 1)

 

A couple of click away without leaving your easy chair.

 

I have actually bought retro games on eBay just for the manual, so I know the importance of having the media is.

[Jysen]

Don't get me wrong, like I said, I've become spoiled by digital when it comes to games lol. So I definitely see the appeal for converting most media into digital.

 

But... there's just something aesthetic about seeing my movie collection in order and on display. Can't really explain it other than just liking the way it looks lol.

 

But games, definitely has been great as digital. Especially when playing with others when we would decide to switch to something else.

[bobrpggamer]

I am not saying you need not get rid of your collection at all, not at all, all you have to do is rip your collection to a hard drive. I have a large collection of movies, television and some video games and lots of computer games on my shelf as well that I like to look at (although I have had to sell some on ebay to pay some of my credit card debt).

 

There is two ways to rip your DVDs and Blu Ray disks. First is via Image rip, this will rip the entire DVD to an ISO image that you can mount with various software and then there is ripping to video file usually MKV. Both ways are 1:1 quality with no loss and you can keep multiple audio and subtitle tracks.

 

These programs are invaluable to rip your video collection:

 

Rip to Image: https://www.redfox.bz/en/anydvdhd.html This will save a perfect image of your movies to a ISO file.

Mounting the Image: https://www.daemon-tools.cc/products/dtLite this will mount the image to a virtual Blu Ray drive.

Rip to video file: https://www.makemkv.com/ This will make a uncompressed video file to watch with a media player, keeping the audio and subtitle tracks in the file and with no loss in quality.

This is a great Media Player that is free that can handle both DVD and Blu Ray disks as well as almost all Video files: https://mpc-hc.org/

 

By all means I am not advocating downloading movies from the web, just converting your collection to use on your PC. This is also a great way to backup your media as well as it reduces wear and scratching on your media by not needing to pull out your disks over and over again.

 

If you are talking about emulation being digital, there are ways to find games you may not find out there to purchase, so you can relive your childhood with some retro games you may remember that you cannot find on Ebay. I am going to send you a PM with some info on Emulation.

 

You remind me of The Angry Video Gaming Nerd with his thoughts about emulation and his insistence of having the real games to play on his game systems. Yet not all people cannot afford to have 4000 games in their library.

 

I would love to have every Apple I/II/GS, C64, Amiga and MS-DOS RPG game in mint quality on my shelf but the idea of that happening is about the same as having Action Comics #1 in mint condition, so I have some Retro RPG games in digital format, some with PDF or TXT instructions. In all cases these game are considered abandonedware and public domain so they are very easy to acquire as long as you know where to find them.

 

Like I said I had to sell quite a few full boxed versions of some retro RPG games (some as old as C64, Apple II, Atari ST, Amiga and DOS) on eBay to pay some bills which sucks but I needed the money.

[bobrpggamer]

Well I just spent $1200.00 on an upgrade:

 

Intel Core i7-8700K

CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000

MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON LGA 1151 (300 Series)

2X SAMSUNG 970 EVO M.2 2280 500GB

Noctua NH-U12S 120x120x25mm CPU Heatsink/Fan

 

I will hate myself later, but you only live once and heck Saturday is my birthday.

 

I will get it in a week or so and I will let you know the performance when I build it, and upload some pics of it.

 

I am a flippen idiot.