Jump to content

stample

Members
  • Posts

    162
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by stample

  1. They really missed an opportunity here. Making it functional would be hard since its actually 9 blocks, but why is the graphic set to 7 o'clock? Should be 9:59. Or 4:20. Because that's something TFP would do.
  2. We've done this on our server. The trick is to never kill them during the day. "Time to respawn" is set when the zombie is killed, and during the daytime, its normal (couple days). So if you clear the area during the day, you have no nighttime mob farm. When night ends, be sure to jump on a vehicle and drive far away rather than finishing off what you have, or you'll wreck your farm for a few game days.
  3. Try the wall-mounted medicine cabinets, including the non-lootable version of them. Really high return rate of acid on those.
  4. 8.4km away should only be possible if you're pretty close to the edge of the map, too. Sounds like you have a trader down in a corner, in a small town without big POIs. The reason its making you go so far is because it needs to find 5 POIs of each appropriate tier, and those are probably the closest. If you can find a trader near the center of the map, preferably one in a major city, it'll give you much better options.
  5. yeah but I like that warning, just not the rest of the drivel
  6. This! Unlike previous versions, where your rep was "shared" across all traders, in A20 your rep is pre-trader-location. I wasn't sure if it was a bug or not, but its consistent so far. Every new trader I get to, I start over at T1. I thought I even had to start over going from Rekt to Rekt, but maybe I just hadn't progressed up Rekt 1 before I went to Rekt 2. I'll pay attention next time.
  7. They are pretty cool. I found a Q2 one on... I want to say day 30ish, and I was probably mid 20s at the time. My friend had already built his own Q5 one by then, though. Few things about them: You can use multiple cargo mods, but you can't shift-click to add 2nd or more. It blocks it (presumably) because one already exists. However, you can pick one up and manually drop it in. I never would have tried if the patch notes hadn't called out specifically that its possible to do. Its the only mod in the game that you can stack, so its pretty unintuitive. With 4 of them, though, its like having an extra motorcycle worth of storage. Pretty amazing. Healing we don't fully understand yet. It only heals you if you're under 50 (hp? %? not sure, haven't done testing). And if you have both bandages and medkits, it seems to have some preference. Might be the order they are in the storage? Again, haven't put time into figuring it out yet. The drawback, the drone LOVES to get in the way. I mean, it blocks doors so your party members can't get through until you run far enough off. It really loves blocking the door in the Bob or Jen trader areas, preventing you from leaving (duck, you can kinda go under it). It even has a habit of jumping between me and zombies when I'm trying to snipe them with arrows. Gonna rename it Pinhead. I would love to see a "Move" button in the context menu. Really need a mod that removes all the talking except an alert, which should just be a beep sound. If I can get some time, I'll make it, unless someone else beats me to it.
  8. Haven't tested it yet in A20, but I wrote these back in A18 and A19. Ghillie suit as mods is one of them. But yeah, it'll all break/be irrelevant when outfits change in A21.
  9. Glad you like it! I don't use the World Editor, because I've had a rough time using it also. I just added it to my NitroGen prefab list. I'm sure the World Editor is useful if one takes the time to learn it, but since I exclusively use NitroGen these days, I haven't been bothered to do so.
  10. Yes they do exist in creative. They have to exist because they're used in POIs. Like Hugh's trading post, for example. You place them upside down not just to repair easily, but so zombies don't bob up and down while running across them. So you can get them headshots. Plus you could place barbed wire directly on top of it to slow them down, too. Yeah, they were OP. But good, sensible traps. I miss them.
  11. Thanks, @Gouki, means a lot coming from you
  12. "Blood Falls", an underground lake and waterfall. Tourist attraction for many kilometers in every direction the interstates run. This is a large-ish prefab, primarily underground, inspired by the many caves in my part of the country, and one particular underground waterfall. Complete with garishly colored lights that curators seem to think "enhance" the natural beauty of cave formations. My first prefab attempt, trying to teach myself proper prefabbing. Many thanks to Genosis (sp?) at NotAGamer Gaming, for his video tutorial series. I'm calling it T4, but might only be a T3 by number of zombies. Good for Clear, Fetch, and Fetch/Clear quests. Best viewed with shadows on, and/or at night. Kinda loses the magic without proper darkness. My computer is pretty potato, so my screenshots will look like rubbish. In an attempt to cater to multiple playstyles, I've tried to put in pros and cons for both Stealth and Run N Gun. Proper, careful stealth may net you some extra loot, while fast and loud will help you avoid certain traps. Known Bugs: There is some wonkiness with the first Spawn Volume. Doesn't always show up, so far only in Clear quests. I have no idea why. I've tried moving the quest starter further back but that didn't fix it. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears. The crawler's trap doesn't really... work well. Kinda works? If anyone knows ways to get them to do what they are supposed to, I'd love to hear from you. I'll avoid saying more so I don't spoil it. You'll know when you see it. Trying to make zombies spawn in shallow water results in uneven water surface. Not sure how to avoid that. Maybe they need to float on top and fall in? But I don't have a good way to block LOS in some of the places, so you'd see it happen. For now I'm leaving it with uneven water. Designed in/for A19.x Prefab: https://github.com/stamplesmods/7d2dmodlets/blob/master/prefabs/blood_falls_cave.rar NitroGen prefab entry: blood_falls_cave,USED,3,-34,63,42,63,alone;farm
  13. Liking a lot of the changes, but two things have me worried: Inventory unlocking: Currently you can unlock your entire inventory using double clothing pocket mods and triple armor pocket mods. Going down to only 4 pieces of equipment means we'd like 6-pocket mods or something like it. Or will Pack Mule become required to fully unlock your encumbrance slots? It was mentioned much earlier in this thread that possibly a larger backpack is something on the roadmap in the future. That would only make this even more vital. Temperature management: Are there plans to drastically increase the temperature bonuses of armor/clothing? With half as many, you'd need twice as much on each piece to combat desert/snow temperatures. If you're not going to continue the cowboy hat/skullcap/pressboy hat mods (which gave excellent temp bonuses, its not just about visual effects), how will we possibly have enough temp resistance? I'm worried that a lumberjack-type outfit might be great for snow, but useless in wasteland/burnt/whatever-its-called-next biome, resulting in either constant overheating or foregoing the bonuses. Likewise, would your ranger outfit result in you constantly freezing in the snow biome? I look forward to the increased challenges in the harder biomes, but I hope that challenge doesn't include dealing with stage 2 freeze/heat exhaustion the entire time. Today I can swap my skullcap mod for a cowboy hat mod, and my duster for a poncho, and I'm all set to handle a different biome. That won't be possible now.
  14. stample

    Stamples Modlets

    Probably not, since it will be adding items to the world. It's likely to mess up the order of any other custom items, if anyone is in possession of any when you load it
  15. So here's what I've got. Its a bit rough. Could probably use a bit more smoothing. I'll go through what I did to get here, though. I used this image as a base, which I snagged off Wikipedia, of all places. Its still got shading, but it was pretty good. Turn it to B/W first thing. Select water and delete it all, set it nice and dark. I did 45, which was a mistake (more on that later). Next I went around the borders with an eraser at 100% opacity but feathered edges. Reduced brush size for the fiddly bits around harbors and for tracing rivers. That eliminated the white border at the water's edge, which would otherwise have resulted in huge, thin walls. Next, clone stamp at 70% opacity to edit out latitude and longitude lines, as well as the rivers I didn't want to keep. This is the most time-consuming bit of all of it, but at least we didn't have cities and such named here, so it wasn't too bad. Pull from nearby, usually a little on each side, and try to match general terrain features and brush stroke the direction of the features. This disturbs the overall image the least. Apply a Gaussian Blur at 1.6 px to the entire image. Blur any rough edges in delicate areas, like the islands near the coast that were too small to risk with the eraser, and smudge river entrances/exits or rough areas where the eraser didn't get everything. Finally, I started adjusting brightness and contrast until the peaks were about 180, and the shoreline hung around 50-60. Another mistake, but not that big. Start in with dodge tool nad 20% opacity to fix the major mountains. You have what looks like a volcano in the southeast, and a few other prominent peaks, as well as that entire SW mountain range. Lightened up the shadows on the SW sides to match NE sides, which mostly eliminates the weirdness of the cartographers light sourcing. Generated a map, and realized that 45 is not underwater. Check readme, its actually 33. Oops. Adjust brightness down until shoreline area is about 40. Re-render. Check in game, looks pretty good, but because of my earlier mistake, all the peaks are below 165 so there is no snow anywhere on the map. El Salvador has some beautiful peaks, and I want to preserve that. So I adjust the brightness up about 70 points. This puts most of the peaks above 165, but not much else. Highlands are sitting around 160 now. Export that, run a map gen, and save the biomes.png off to the side. Now, we can run the original heightmap again, but swap in the biomes.png and we'll still have snow on the peaks, even though they are quite a bit lower than NitroGen would place it. I'm not happy with the POI spread that I got, and they're pretty turned down, so I'm just going to post the files, and you can run gen as many times as you want until you get a spread you like. Just remember to swap the biomes.png file back in when you put it in the 7d2d folder. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. Some of the areas are still pretty rough, and it'd probably benefit from a some more smoothing. But if you want rugged terrain up in the mountains, this is definitely that. I'm not happy with the rivers (I never am) because they have to be at sea level, rather than descending from the mountain heights. Also, the POIs tend to generate near them and overwrite sections of them. They make nice canyon paths through the highlands, though. Here are a few images I took of the southern shoreline, near the SE volcano thing, and up in the highlands area of the NW. Here are the settings I was using in NitroGen. You probably want more cities and towns, I just wanted a fast gen time since my computer is a bit potato. ElSalvador.zip
  16. Um, honestly I'm not really good at tutorials, and its very dependent on what editing software you are using. Also, I'm not set up to do recording for YouTube. Personally, I use Photoshop 7.0, which is like 15 yrs old at this point, because its the last version I bought that I can still "own". Most of the features of NitroGen are explained pretty well in either the first post or the readme file included, and I recommend you read that for those. Main post also has links to several tutorials, many of which I used when I started out, so I highly recommend them. But here a few quick things: 1) mask.png is what controls what POIs can/can't be where. Clear is not masked, I use black for masked (nothing spawns in that area), and a single pixel of red is a city seed, while green is a town seed. Yellow is same as clear, but lets you mark your seeds easily. For example, looking at an 8k map, a single red pixel is not visible, so I put a large square around towns, and a large circle around cities. This lets me see what is what quickly when fully zoomed out. 2) To create your mask.png quickly, I copy my import_HM.png, use a magic selection to select all water, and fill it with black, then invert selection and delete to unmask the rest of the world. 3) Biomes are controlled by biomes.png and can only use a few very specific colors. Be sure if you are editing that that you are using a pencil-type tool with no transparency (or I think its called pixel art mode in Kriento). If you get any shading at all, any single pixel outside the 5 predefined colors, it will error on map gen within 7d2d. 4) You don't need a biomes.png when running in NitroGen. It's only used by 7d2d, using the NitroGen output to create the world. In fact, if you have it, NitroGen will overwrite it with its own. So you can do this step last. I recommend you set biomes in NitroGen to "Natural", which will just give you green everywhere. You're going to overwrite it later anyway, but it'll create the base biomes.png that you can then edit. 5) import_HM.png is your main thing here. It needs to be greyscale, and the RGB values will equal the in-game height. You need to use global contrast and brightness so that your lowest point is below sea-level (I use about 40 25 so my seas are kind of deep [Edit: wow, big mistake here, Sea level is 33, oops] ) and you don't have any huge spikes between adjacent pixels, which are what create those huge vertical cliff faces or spires. The blur and smudge tools are your friend here. Photoshop also has a filter called Gaussian Blur, which does a great job of smoothing stuff out quickly. For removing words/roads/labels, I rely heavily on cloning stamp at around 50-70% flow. The trick to removing them effectively is to sample from several areas around it and overlapping those samples, so you're randomizing pixel changes over recognizable things like letters without drastically altering the overall height in that area. This is best when words overlap terrain features like hills/ravines that would be recognizably edited if you weren't careful. Blur afterwards to smooth them out further, and smudge to repair canyons/crevices. Look at pictures below around Mt. Kosciuszo to see what I mean. 6) Remember that unless you have extremely recognizable features, no one is going to know the difference, so feel free to take liberties with terrain features. Trying to preserve, for example, the actual peaks of a given mountain range would be all but impossible, and no one would notice or appreciate it even if you did. You might make sure the tallest mountain is where Everest lies, but no one would make sure that the 2nd and 3rd highest are proportionally accurate in comparison. So have fun, and don't sweat altering terrain to get done. 7) When testing your terrain gen, use all desert for biome, and turn off all POIs. This will make map gen very fast, and desert is the easiest biome to see the terrain in, since it has only small scrubby trees to get in the way. Load it up in 7d2d, turn on god mode, and fly around to see how its looking. Also, in cheat mode (dm in console) you can shift-right-click on the map to teleport straight there (i used to type in coordinates before I figured this out, ugh!), and the lightswitch in the upper right of the map will toggle through things like "see entire map" and "see biomes" etc. Helps you orient quickly if you're trying to find a specific area of your map to critique. Ex. Below is a small corner of my last map, which was Australia. The first is part of my source image, and the 2nd is from the final import_HM.png in the same area. In-game, these are all rolling hills, since the scale is obviously way off of real world. Also, I put a massive bomb crater just north of Melbourne. Third is from the mask. You (might) see that I seed 3 cities and 3 towns around the crater, which itself is masked out so there are no POIs in it. The yellow squares and circles are a little hard to differentiate at this scale. End result is that you get a massive single-city-like area with a bomb crater in the center. Finally, the last is a screenshot that shows what it looks like in-game, from the top of a Dishong Tower.
  17. Yeah you can eliminate that by seeding the cities/towns directly. That's what I normally do. I made myself a lil chart of how many cities/towns you get for a given size map for each setting, and then seed exactly that many. So for instance, I did the Big Island of Hawaii, and put a city on each of the major RL cities. Alternatively, you can use the mask to mask out the water, and prevent it from seeding towns/cities out there while still allowing for random placement on the land. Those massive hills you're seeing are why you'd reduce contrast, gives a flatter overall map, and no death-drops off the sides of mountains.
  18. @Chrnosdark Some warning on what you are trying to do. The map you have there will do bad things, because of the light shading applied to the rougher areas. What you really need is a true topological map that doesn't put those obnoxious shadows in for human readability. It can be difficult to find. Otherwise, you'll need to heavily edit the picture for it to be right, which can take a lot of time. Ideally, you want a grayscale image where dark is lower elevation and white is higher. Expect to have to hand-edit to get that, though. Once you're there, you'll need to adjust global contrast and brightness so that most of your elevations are between 50 and 120 (meaning RGB value of 50,50,50 and 120,120,120) with emphasis on the lower end. so that cities can spawn in the most places possible. Somewhere early in this thread is a note about the max height a city will spawn in, due to height of skyscrapers needing to be below the top of the world. I've done a few of these now, and happy to help you out, but I don't recognize that country from the image. Is it El Salvador?
  19. Bed rock is at height 3. How far down depends whether you're at sea-level or on a mountain. You'll know when you get there, because it makes the "ding" sound, the same as when you punch something at the Trader.
  20. If you want to do this, here are some thoughts. Forget the pressure plate, use a motion sensor. Put the sensor behind the door/pitfall, and wire it up such that the path is "available" only when the motion sensor does not detect anything. Set the motion sensor to detect both zombies and you. Put a room behind that door, almost entirely covered by the motion sensor. Now, by standing in the majority of the room, you'll be detected and door/pitfall prevents them from getting to you. Back into the un-watched corner and it will allow zombies in. Zombies come running, as soon as 1-2 get into the room they hit sensor area, door slams shut, you rush forward to kill them. As long as either you or the zombies are in the fighting area, door will stay closed. Once cleared and you're ready again, back out of sensor range. You might also put a robo-sledge outside/next to the door to knock off any zombies that make it too the door, but not thru the door, so they don't destroy it. It will last a long time this way. The electric vault hatches make excellent triggerable bridges, btw. Put your door flush with the outer wall, then place the hatch at 90 degrees below the door (flat to the wall when closed) so that when it opens, the hatch is horizontal and provides a ledge to stand on at the door. When it closes, there's nothing for the zombie to stand on outside the door/nothing to jump onto. They will leap at the door, probably hit it once as they fall, but can't continually damage it. Edit: Oh, if you do use sledges, be sure to place it to the right of the door (hits the zombies on the left side) so it won't trigger the demolishers.
  21. Can't comment on whether you can get two. I suspect that's from the bonuses of Motherload, and see no reason it couldn't give it to you. But I doubt its 5% per hit, else you'd get one nearly every time cut down a tree with a stone ax or chainsaw. Might even resort to punching! Its not entirely relatable, but I had the same question about getting radiators and engines and batteries from cars after an extremely unlucky run of 20+ cars with no engines using a T6 impact driver. So I went to creative, spawned in 40 cars, and pulled them apart with a modded super-driver that 1-shot each level of the car, then repeated with a Q1 wrench. It's not a statistically significant test, but I did get with 1-2 results from each run, out of all three types: batteries engines, radiators. In fact, it was so close, it was almost suspicious. In any case, I determined (to my own satisfaction) that I got the appropriate number of special items regardless of how many hits it took to get through each layer of the car. That tells me they determine it at some point, but I'm not sure when. Last hit? First hit? What if someone else hits the car first, then I do? Does it even matter? Does the game store that decision in case I don't tear it down, and then log out, and the server restarts? Why do I even care, since I normally have more than I need of each of them? Because, I just do!!
  22. Since you mentioned watercooling, thought I'd share this. I just saw it a few days ago, and was surprised at how well good airflow works, and can even be better than watercooling (and certainly lasts longer). I'm starting to really like Linus Tech Tips. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23vjWtUpItk
  23. stample

    Stamples Modlets

    Releasing Today: StamplesDefenseQuests This adds 5 Defend quests (one of each tier) that send you to a random T1 or T2 POI, where you defend White River assets against 3-4 waves of zombies, and dispatch a leader zombie at the end. T1 all normal zombies at a T1 POI T2 all normal zombies, with a few of the harder (fat, military) ones, at a T1 POI T3 mix of normal and feral at a T2 POI, a few special zombies (cop, spiders, bikers, etc.) will show up occasionally T4 mostly feral at a T2 POI, special ferals will show up near the end T5 mix of feral and glowies at a T2 POI, radioactive ferals and demolishers can show up near the end. The quest will reset the POI at the beginning, which means local inhabitants may join the fight, and you cannot build fortifications ahead of time. Dispatching the leader zombie advances both the Trader-given quest, and the sub-quest that send you to the POI, and both can be turned in at the trader upon return. It is possible to just craft the radio receivers and do the waves at a POI without visiting the trader, but that's where the majority of the rewards come from. Special thanks go to @geengaween who provided the initial idea in this thread: All my mods are available here https://github.com/stamplesmods/7d2dmodlets
  24. stample

    Stamples Modlets

    You are absolutely correct. Thanks for catching that. Fix uploaded.
  25. stample

    Stamples Modlets

    Publishing a few changes today. Frobscottle, Dr. Prepper, and Naked Gator had some weirdness in the xpath append statements of ui_display.xml that made them not very friendly with other mods coming behind them. Resolved that. If you got errors for duplicate entries with other mods, and that didn't seem to make sense, it should no longer happen. Naked Gator has also had 2 additional changes. It was intended to be an early-game booster, but requiring a Chem Station was a dumb decision on my part. I've moved it to a campfire with a cooking pot. It can also now be found in the world in the Beverage loot group with the same frequency as Beer. That means beverage coolers, traders, and vending machines to name a few. Base value is 150 dukes.
×
×
  • Create New...